Tuesday, September 12, 2017

Best Under Eye Concealers

Dark circles and puffy eyes don't only happen after a late night bar crawl. For some of us it's everyday no matter how much beauty rest we get. We all get them as we age, but how early they crop up has everything to do with genetics. It can be difficult to choose the right concealer and you can really tell when you've chosen the wrong one. There's color to think of and which formula is right for your skin type. I'll go over all that so you can see what your skin needs to look smooth and refreshed.

What causes dark circles and puffy eyes?

They're two entirely different problems and so you'll need a different concealer type depending on if your eyes are puffy or dark or both. Puffiness under eyes is generally the result of swelling from things like crying, water retention, alcohol consumption, or aging. If puffiness is a big issue for you try to cut back on your salt intake and skip the cocktails, but I'll never tell anyone, of any gender, to skip crying. That's what concealer's for. As we age, the skin, tissues, and muscles around our eyes weaken and no longer keep their proper shape. That's why as we get older, we develop bags as the normal fat cushion around our eyes settles lower than it used to be. When your under eyes are swollen, you need a concealer that's one to two shades darker than your normal skin tone to visually push the puffiness back into place.

Dark circles have everything to do with how thin the skin around your eyes is. The skin of your eye area is under half as thick as the rest of you body, with your eyelids being the thinnest part of your skin over all. When your eyes look dark, it's because the blood vessels around your eyes are visible through your skin. Those predisposed to very thin skin around their eyes are going to have darker circles. It's not all genetics though. When you're stressed and overtired, increased blood volume and high blood pressure make those blood vessels even more prominent. So concealer is a great fix, but self-care is also great. Dark circles make your eyes look like they are pushed farther back so you need a concealer one to two shades lighter than your skin tone to bring them forward.

How to choose an under eye concealer.

Whatever you're concealing, you want to choose a shade that is the opposite color of your problem area. Reach back to your knowledge of the magic of the color wheel from when you were a kid. Green is the opposite of red. If inflamed blemishes are your issue, choose a concealer with a greenish hue. Also check out my guide to the best acne spot treatments to really make that zit disappear.

Find some natural light and take a good look at your skin–florescent bulbs always throw your skin color off. If your dark circles are blueish, go with an orangey concealer. If your eyes look bruised and purple, a yellow tinted concealer will bring you back to even. If your puffiness has a yellow tinge, go for a purple tint.

The formula you need depends on your skin type. Concealers come in liquids, creams, pencils, and sticks.

Liquid concealers are a safe bet for nearly all skin types. The only folks who should avoid liquid concealers are those with very dry skin as the liquid won't look as natural over dry skin. They're great for covering large areas, concealing fine lines, and offering a range of coverage. You can build liquids up from having sheer coverage at one layer to opaque at two or three. Don't go over that though or it can look unnatural.

Cream concealers are where dry skin wants to be. It's also a good fit for average and combination skin. They're easy to blend and provide good coverage. Creams are prone to creasing so keep that in mind if fine lines are a concern.

Pencils and sticks are super convenient. They're great for applying on the go and you don't have to worry about spilling. Because of their thicker formula, people with oily or combination skin will want to avoid these as the natural oiliness of these products could clog pores.

Techniques and tips.

Always apply eye cream first to give your make up an ideal surface to stick to.

Foundation first, concealer second. Adding foundation on top of your concealer can smudge it around to the wrong parts of your face and defeat the purpose.

If you're lightening, don't just use it in the space under your eye. Apply your under eye concealer in an upside down triangle pattern that reaches about halfway down your nose. This will brighten and lift your whole face.

Let your concealer sit before blending. Concealer tends to change change color as it warms up and reacts to the air. When you immediately blend, you're working with a product that isn't ready. It's like trying on clothes that are wet. This isn't how they're normally going to behave. Some people call this letting your face “cook.” Once the concealer has melted, blending will be easier and less likely to shift on you.

Dot, don't smear. Instead of painting the area to be concealed completely with the product, dab it on lightly and pat with a blending sponge until you have even coverage.

Set your concealer with loose setting powder for all day staying power.

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